This month went by quickly (even allowing for its abbreviated form). Carnaval, in Nice, of course, was a big deal for the city. Evidently, an additional 200,000 people were in attendance for some or all of the 16-day affair. Yet, the city did not feel crowded – unlike how I suspect it might feel this summer when tourism is at its height. We shall see…
The parades were great fun, with ebullient crowds cheering on the panoply of dancers, acrobats, musicians, and floats. Unlike in American parades, there was an M.C. who, in a constant patter, described what, or who, was coming next, often exhorting the crowd to, “Faites du bruit!” (Make some noise!). He warmed up the crowd beforehand (Who is here from Normandy? Who from Paris?) and kept the crowd at the same level of excitement and enthusiasm throughout.
The floats are made of polystyrene and held together with metal rods. They are fabricated primarily by four families whose history of building them goes back generations. The floats start to be assembled in December at a giant warehouse on the outskirts of Nice. One of them, at least, does not survive to see another year. At the end of Carnaval, a bonfire is built on the beach, and the King (featured in the photo above) is immolated, an ancient custom symbolizing the end of winter and the arrival of spring.
I attended two parades in Nice: the 150th Anniversary one, and the Battle of the Flowers. In the Anniversary one, tribute was paid to Rio, with paint rockets in green and yellow, colors found in the Brazilian flag, shooting dramatically out of the float. Other floats featured mythical creatures, or made reference to a famous painting (Botticelli’s “Venus Rising from the Sea,” as one example).
The Battle of the Flowers parade featured floats covered in different types of flowers (particularly mimosas, perfectly in bloom this time of year). The floats traveled the parade route twice, the first time with the flower-bedecked floats on display, the second, with helpers tossing those flowers to the waiting crowds.
I was also in Menton, where the Lemon Festival was happening at approximately the same time. I had tickets for a parade there, but, as it happened to rain that day, I didn’t attend. However, I did spend time in that city on a garden tour. Thus, I was able to see many of their lovely citrus sculptures.
In an unrelated note, I’ll say that it’s been impossible not to notice a fashion trend that has swept the city of late, namely, the ubiquity of blue and orange. This morning, I observed a man dressed entirely in different shades of blue. It was only when he was ascending a staircase that I could see the bright orange socks peeking out from his trousers! No fashion Luddite, he! Store windows display these colors, and those on the street sport them.
As for the apartment, I met with my decorator last week. She made some suggestions, but did not produce a complete plan, as I had hoped. She presented instead a range of possibilities of colors, styles, and furniture placement, leading to confusion on my part, with such an abundance of choice. Evidently, this is going to be a much longer process than I thought. It may be many months before I have a fully furnished place, but I am at this point resolved to that timeframe.
In dealing with the unending paperwork related to moving in, I learned a new word. A friend was helping me fill out a document, which involved several pages. She asked me, in French, if I had “un trombone.” No doubt I looked utterly confused, for she proceeded to draw a picture of what she was requesting. Ahh, a paper clip! Adorable! It does look like exactly like the instrument!
Finally, the Riviera had a couple of magnificent storms in February, with dramatic waves a wonderful contrast to the normally sedate Mediterranean. It is picturesque, it seems, at all times of the year.
